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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.